After spending almost half a year as a student on Crete, people have often asked me what you can do and what you should keep in mind. I am a person who, when traveling, values local culture and nature more than relaxation and attractions, so keep that in mind when reading my recommendations and warnings.
A rough Summary
Crete can be divided into the more populated northeast, the very beautiful and beach-heavy south, the rather quiet and untouristic west and the mountainous inland.
If you like beautiful cities and/or party tourism, you should look for accommodation in the northeast of the island. On the other hand, I find the beaches in the south of the island more beautiful and quieter, and you are also close to many beautiful natural spots, e.g. some gorges and very beautiful beaches. In the east there is not much tourist infrastructure, and I didn’t find it as beautiful as the south. On the other hand, there is relatively little tourism here, the beaches are still very quiet even at the beginning of the season. Inland there are small villages, and above all beautiful mountains for hiking.
In any case, you should rent a car, without a car almost nothing works on Crete. I recommend Protos, who do all rentals uncomplicated and with full insurance, do not charge a deposit and also handle claims in a relaxed manner. They are also active in several cities on Crete.
Cities
Rethymno
Rethymno was the most beautiful city I visited on Crete. You can get wonderfully lost in the alleys around the harbor, and from the old fortress you have a fantastic view of the city.
Heraklion
I can’t recommend longer stays in Heraklion during the tourist season unless you happen to live there. There are some nice museums, I especially liked the Archaeological Museum, but otherwise it is far from all the beautiful beaches and places. The city itself is quite pretty, but nothing special.
Chania
I haven’t been to Chania myself. The city is supposed to be pretty, and is quite close to the Samaria Gorge. Unfortunately, I was also told that it is completely overcrowded, even by Cretan standards.
In Nature
Samaria Gorge
The Samaria Gorge is an absolute must-see, but it is also usually very crowded and only open in summer. However, if you stay overnight at the end of the gorge in one of the accommodations or at the free self-service campground, you can start the hike a little later and will find the gorge much less crowded because most tourists want to catch the ferry in the evening. Also good to know: There are enough water points in the gorge, you don’t have to carry more than a liter of water.
Psiloritis
The hike to the highest peak of Crete is less strenuous than you might think, with only about 800 meters of altitude difference. You should pay attention to the weather, otherwise you might not see anything. You can often watch the big vultures gliding.
Spathi
The Spathi is the second highest mountain in Crete. There are several routes to its summit, the starting points are often difficult to reach by car, you should be prepared for an adventurous drive. The route is a bit more demanding but also much emptier than the one to Psiloritis, and the view is just as beautiful.
Beaches
For all beaches: Go snorkeling! You may have to search for a while, but there are often smaller reefs with many colorful fish.
Red Beach near Matala
The partly nudist beach is a short walk from Matala, a small hippie stronghold. It is very beautiful, and relatively empty for that (because of the footpath and the few naked people). You can also visit the many cute shops in Matala, and enjoy a very tasty vegan buffet on most Sundays.
Amnissos Beach
Should you find yourself in Heraklion despite my advice, go to Amnissos Beach instead. There is a bus line going there, and the beach is much nicer than Ammoudara. And generally speaking: The beaches in the south of the island are more beautiful.
Kalypso “Beach”
Kalypso is not a beach at all, but the strange concrete terrace of some resort. However, you shouldn’t let that put you off if you want to snorkel or dive. I have never seen so many fish in one place in my life, it goes down many, many meters.
Anti-Tips
I want to warn you about some disappointments, especially with heavily advertised attractions.
Knossos Palace
This ancient palace complex was more vandalized than reconstructed by Evans, a British archaeologist. Even to the layman, it is clear that his painted concrete blocks have little to do with the original construction, which can still be partially seen. Also, the whole thing is poorly curated; I didn’t find the few information boards very informative.
Elafonisi Beach
The beach is known for being pink, but there is not much left of this pinkness… It is still beautiful, but just not (anymore) pink. Maybe all the pink sand was taken away by tourists; in any case, there are a lot of them here.
There are many lesser-known pretty beaches nearby; it’s better to go there.